I%26#39;m a long-time lurker who got a lot of good ideas from TA, so I figure the least I can do is report back on my November %26#39;06 trip. A friend%26#39;s mother got a weeklong timeshare on the outskirts of the 15th arrondissement and the two of them invited me along for that week, plus a weekend more centrally located. I hadn%26#39;t been to Paris since just after college -- almost 15 years ago -- and this was the first trip for my friend and her mom.
My French is pretty damn good and I took two refresher courses before we left; when locals switched to English on me -- which happened whenever I admitted being American -- I asked if we could continue in French, and they obliged. My friend speaks about ten words of French, but also found the Parisians friendly and accomodating. Her mother, who didn%26#39;t really get the hang of even %26quot;bonjour,%26quot; was not as well-received.
I can%26#39;t stress the importance of compatible travel companions. My friend and I have travelled together before and know each other%26#39;s similarities and differences. Her mother: well. Her mother is an arthritic, coach-tour, English-only, everything-catered tourist. I had no idea beforehand -- my own mother is active and adventurous -- and much of our trip was about accomodating her limitations and disinterest in veering anywhere off the tourist track. Phew, I feel better having gotten that off my chest.
On to Paris...We had wonderful weather -- cool but not cold, and just a little rain one morning. Our first day was surrendered to jetlag. The second day, we took the Metro to the Eiffel Tower [we wound up Metro-ing everywhere with Carte Orange passes], which we only admired from the ground, then took a roundabout saunter to get a feel for the city, through the Champs de Mars, past the Ecole Militaire and the Hotel des Invalides, across the river and back to and down Blvd St-Germain. We loved going to the cafes for lunch. Wine and water were some of the only bargains we found: carafes of tap water are free for the asking and a pichet of wine (about three glasses) is under 10 Euros.
Blvd St-Germain in the 5th and 6th was packed with tourists, even in November. We wandered over to Ile de la Cite and into Notre Dame and Cathedral St-Chappelle, then went to Cafe de Flore for a coffee break and some great people-watching. The highlight of the day was the street march we stumbled past -- against psychiatrists who over-medicate -- that felt much more current that the list of sights we were ticking off.
We developed a habit of late-afternoon naps back in the non-touristy 15th, which left us hungry for dinner at French meal time, 8 or 9pm. My friend had great restaurant luck with the Frommer%26#39;s guide, so much so that I bought the San Francisco Frommer%26#39;s when I got home. That first night we went to Fish in the Latin Quarter. Wonderful food, friendly service.
The next day was the first Sunday of the month, when national museums are free. They braved crowds at the Louvre while I went to the nearly empty Petit Palais, then we all dove into the Musee d%26#39;Orsay, which is breathtaking no matter how many times you%26#39;ve seen it. We went to the Jim Haynes dinner that night and were all disappointed. It was way overcrowded and some of the attendees were, um, creepy. That was balanced out by the pleasant local restaurant where we made ourselves into nightcap regulars: Autour de..., near the Porte de Versailles Metro stop.
The next day, they went to Versailles (which turns out to be closed on Mondays -- oops) and I went to the Shoah (Holocaust) memorial and museum in the Marais -- extremely sobering -- then to a photo exhibit at City Hall. I wandered around Ile St-Louis before we reconvened for the nighttime bateau mouche trip in a concession to my friend%26#39;s mom. Another great dinner: Le Canton, a Chinese place in the 6th.
Next day: morning shopping in the Marais, then to Reims to tour Veuve Clicquot, one of the few activities we planned in advance. We spent exactly enough time admiring the Reims cathedral: taxiing past it slowly on the way back to the train station.
I%26#39;m an early riser and got up each morning to walk off some energy and drink espresso with the locals while my companions slept in. Next day, more shopping in the Marais, then our big splurge meal, lunch at Georges, the Centre Pompidou restaurant, which was 75 Euros each and was almost worth it for the view alone. Again, fantastic food, friendly service.
Next day: Pere Lachaise Cemetery and Sacre Coeur, more great food. After a week, we moved to Hotel Parc St-Severin in the 5th. I loved it because it%26#39;s central yet quiet, the service was great, the room was big and the bathroom was spotless and huge. My friend%26#39;s mom hated it because there wasn%26#39;t an American-style coffeemaker in the room. We went to the weekly fashion show at Galeries Lafayette, which was pretty fun, then did more wandering and shopping, followed by dinner at La Bastide Odeon, another winner. Afterward, we dropped my friend%26#39;s mom off for an English-narrated van tour of the sights and we, uh, went out drinking.
Our last day, I spent the morning wandering the Marche Maubert and soaking up the last moments of cafe-hanging, then we went to the Arc de Triomphe for an Armistice Day parade that lacked pizazz, and to L%26#39;Orangerie, which was wonderful, and finally to Berthillon for ice cream that has to be tasted to be appreciated. I%26#39;m already planning another Paris trip in spring %26#39;08 (after the restaurant smoking ban goes into effect) with - yes - my own mother. Wish me luck!
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Thank you very much for a great AND entertaining report, SFCA!!
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Enjoyed your report, and would like to know more about the Holocaust Memorial. Exactly where is it, and what sort of exhibit is it? Thanks so much.
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SFCA, I,m sympathetic. I went last year with two friends one of whom asked if she could bring her sister along. What a mistake! She was the epitome of the ugly American, she had me cringing to the point that I was making excuses to go off on my own all the time. Everything had to be centered around her and even then she wasn%26#39;t happy. Only wanted to eat at Mc Donalds or in train stations and constantly complained about the price of everything. What a nightmare. Going by myself this year so I can see the Paris that I want to see and spend whatever I please. My motto is, if you can%26#39;t afford it stay home.
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Thanks for the entertaining report. Glad you enjoyed yourself despite the %26quot;impediment.%26quot; have fun planning the next trip!
flahagan, for you: www.memorialdelashoah.org
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I absolutely LOVED reading your report. It was more declicious than the cup of coffee I just had this morning.. I especially like the fact that you ended your report talking about Berthillon ice-cream...... my personal favorite Parisian treat.
I agree that it%26#39;s very important to travel with suitable companions - it can be very difficult catering to the needs of people that are unpleasant to be with.
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Hi SFCA
Thank you for the entertaining report. I can see why you disappeared each morning for a cup of coffee to prepare you for the day with your friend%26#39;s mother. Inspired idea to send her off on a tour while you and your friend had a leisurely drink and chat. I am sure you know what your own mother is like to travel with so you will have a wonderful time when you return.
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Hiya SCFA - I really enjoyed your trip and can personally relate to your experience with travelling %26quot;companions%26quot;. After a pretyy disastrous trip this April (with hubby, sis-in-law and her 2 kids) I returned with my mother and sister in October. This was SO MUCH BETTER!
Definitely right there with you in the early morning %26#39;escape%26#39; to a nearby cafe - it was one of my greatest joys to watch Paris open her eyes and gradually wake up.....
You%26#39;ll be well prepared for the next trip!
Sandra
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I love a report with a sense of humor! And I wish others (ie some of my former travel companions) could realize that not EVERYTHING has to be done together. I love being able to just go and do your %26quot;own thing%26quot; and then you can re-group and share your experiences. Really wish I would have pushed harder for that on my Venice trip....spent an OBNOXIOUS amount of time hunting for %26quot;the perfect lace%26quot; on the island of Burano (ugh! SNORE!) with an aunt.
Also intrigued about your Holocaust museum stop. I%26#39;ve had an interest in that period and WWII in general ever since I was a child. Never realized there was a museum devoted to it in Paris. Haha, that would definitely be one I%26#39;d need to do on my own! Can%26#39;t see any of my forseeable travel partners rearing to go visit that museum....would much rather take their 40th picture in front of the Eiffel Tower (note sarcasm and bitterness from another poorly selected travel mate. lol).
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Thanks for the enjoyablr trip report!
There is also a WWII museum and pictures of Holocaust victims in one of the Les Invalide museums. Did you go see the Deportation Memorial in back of Notre Dame across in the park?
Where is the Holocaust Museum in the Marais?
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Thanks for an interesting report !
Would your mother%26#39;s friend be any chance be related to TA member Pixfields ex-mother-in-law ?
(Sorry, that%26#39;s an insider joke. Mentioned member Pixfield was once married to a French girl who brought into their marriage this ubelievably horrible M.I.L. Every time he inserts a post to this forum - somehow this M.I.L.-ghost sticks up her terrible face......)
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